“Here’s another Irish 20-something, desperate to escape Ireland’s so-called stifling familiarity, only to end up at the only Irish pub on the Albufeira strip, playing GAA in Australia, or living on the one street in Paris named after the Irish.” Yes, this may be true to a point. But there’s something to be said for this fate we Irish seem drawn to again and again. Is it a testament to our deep-rooted culture, or simply the urge to see the world without ever truly leaving home behind?

The Centre Culturel Irlandais (CCI) is much more than a cultural centre; it’s an Irish haven in the heart of Paris. Nestled in 5 Rue des Irlandais, its iconic turquoise doors are a beacon for any Irish soul wandering far from home, and for good reason. Officially billed as a “showcase for Ireland and its contemporary culture at the heart of Europe” by the Irish government, the centre is a curious blend of history, art and home comforts. For Irish students on Erasmus, some of whom (myself included) live in the CCI, stepping into its courtyard is like walking into a pocket of Ireland. But is it a home away from home, or does it simply become, well, home?

Long before Erasmus programmes, the roots of Irish people in Paris were planted during a far darker time. Fleeing anti-Catholic sentiment and laws in the 16th and 17th centuries, Irish priests, artists and scholars sought refuge on the Continent. Paris became a vibrant centre of Irish academia and artistry, with a growing Irish college established by Louis XIV himself in 1677 on Rue des Carmes. Over the centuries, these walls were home to influential minds who would return to Ireland to inspire others with the skills and stories they had gathered in Paris. After its collegiate heyday, the site went through many transformations, serving as a hospital during the Franco-Prussian War and even as a refuge for the American army in 1945. It became a seminary for Polish priests in 1945 before the Irish government reclaimed it in 2002 for its present-day purpose. This history is an indelible presence as you step into the courtyard. While we may use this space to gossip about which €3 wine tastes the least rancid, or to ring our worried mothers at home, it also serves as a contemplative space to reflect on the many important conversations that took place within these four walls. 

The Centre may have modernised over the years, but it remains a vivid reminder of the Irish diaspora’s past. The centre’s chapel, based on Armagh Cathedral, holds weekly masses which serve as a mini-reunion over tea and biscuits. Dotted around the courtyard are plaques from every town in Ireland that houses a cathedral, along with a poetry jukebox from renowned modern Irish poets.The médiatheque offers a variety of books, with endless opportunities to learn more about your own heritage, not to mention the incredible Old Library with its ancient Irish manuscripts. The artistic touches around the centre celebrate each of the 32 counties of Ireland; portraits line the spiralling staircase, each a gentle reminder of home. There’s also a ‘Carte Rose’ that grants exclusive membership to the famed Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, a nearby academic library perfect for those studying at the Sorbonne Panthéon just a stone’s throw away.

There’s an undeniable pull to Paris—the romance, the architecture, the aroma of baked goods wafting from boulangeries at any given hour. However, Paris also comes with its inevitable cultural challenges. Between attempting to master rapid-fire philosophical debates in  French law classes at the Sorbonne and facing the quiet reality that maybe Emily in Paris left out a few inconvenient truths, it’s easy to feel adrift here. It doesn’t feel like a coincidence that Emily’s apartment is set a mere street apart from the CCI, a reminder of just how magical the Latin Quarter truly is. After a long day of ordering your croissant in French only to be barked back at in English, narrowly avoiding death by cyclists and (failing to) combat imposter syndrome in your 3 hour lecture, a comforting anchor awaits amidst this sea of newness. The homesickness fades slightly, albeit with the ironic twist of only really feeling fully Irish after leaving Ireland. I can’t count on my hand the amount of conversations I’ve had with fellow residents here in which everyone is astonished by just how ‘Irish’ they feel upon moving to Paris, and to the CCI specifically In Rue des irlandais, time seems to stand still, permitting you to process just how big of a change you have undertaken.

For Irish students, CCIis both an artistic outlet and a gateway into Irish culture. Classes as Gaeilge draw everyone from Parisians to lifelong Irish expats who have called Paris home for decades without ever returning to Ireland. In the C1 level class, I have met Parisians who have dedicated the last few years of life to improving their Irish, which honestly puts a lot of us who have grown up learning it to shame. The welcoming atmosphere of the Centre draws in a large international audience as well – locals fascinated by Ireland or who have some link to Irish heritage are drawn here, sometimes out of curiosity, sometimes out of connection, but always with an open mind.

Here, Irish creativity thrives, whether through regular performances, art exhibits, or traditional music sessions. As one of the many Irish Erasmus students in Paris, I never imagined I’d find myself so deeply rooted in my heritage, which we all profess to celebrate but, in reality, our daily commitments don’t allow us to fully focus on. Suddenly, I’m meeting artists I would never have the opportunity to meet at home, attending professional recitals and open-air performances for free and forming unusual friendships over the free daily continental breakfast before 8am lectures.

Though the downsides of living here are few, if you’re seeking immersion in French life, CCI is so culturally comfortable it can be  hard to venture beyond its walls. With language classes right there, social events in English and an array of Irish friends who share your cultural shorthand, it’s easy to see how students can stay cocooned in this little Irish bubble. Like Robert Frost, I found myself standing at a divergence of two paths: complete independence in my own Parisian apartment, or shared living in the CCI. Unlike Frost, it could be said that I chose the path the most travelled by. Yet it still has made all the difference, but in  the best ways. As an international student in Paris, it can be hard to make friends with Parisian students, who, naturally, would rather stick with their own friendship groups. Moving here was undoubtedly made easier by arriving with a few friends, and we quickly developed a routine of evening tea in “our room” (my room). Living in a dorm-like space with a shared kitchen for 20 people sounds like chaos—and it is—but it’s also a lovely one. Every mealtime turns into a communal moment; there’s always someone willing to share an ingredient we inevitably forgot at the grocery shops, a baked good, or, even better, a listening ear to a problem they can almost always relate to. Some of my closest friendships have blossomed here, with people whom I might never have met otherwise. Forced proximity might not sound ideal, but in this case, it’s the perfect recipe for building bonds.

As a harpist, the chapel has become my sanctuary for practice, a silent reminder of home that feels like a gift. Life at the CCI has also been marked by events, each bringing a sense of excitement to the days here: piano recitals, open-air performances, traditional Irish nights and even the massive Fête de la Patrimoine, where live music and food vans brought the courtyard to life. Add in weekly meet-ups after Sunday mass, group movie nights and student dinners, and it’s fair to say there’s never a dull moment. The staff and other students are another layer of support. Between the 24/7 security and the community’s open-heartedness, there’s a steady reassurance that’s hard to quantify from private rentals.

If there’s one word to sum up my experience here, it’s “resilience.” The initial weeks were admittedly tough: grappling with the language, adjusting to different teaching styles and nagging “What am I doing here?” moments. But, as time goes by, it becomes clear that these challenges are the very essence of Erasmus. They shape us into more resilient individuals, prepared for whatever comes after we return.  For those of us who’ve never felt quite as Irish as we do now, staying at the CCI is an experience that transcends study abroad. The Centre Culturel Irlandais is an incredible anchor, but it doesn’t keep you from growing, exploring, or stumbling—only from doing so alone. It’s a reminder that the Irish have an uncanny ability to bring warmth and welcome wherever they go, even in the middle of one of the world’s busiest cities.

As the saying goes, the grass is always greener somewhere else. Whilst nothing compares to experiencing Irish culture at its epicentre, for an Erasmus student like myself, sometimes familiarity doesn’t always breed contempt, but rather a sense of comfort and warmth at a time where these concepts can feel intangible.